Beauty Secrets by Sana Nurani
Vancouver-based Professional Makeup & Hair Artist
It’s no secret that everyone woman has struggled with her makeup application at some point in time. Whether it be brows or lipstick, there are just certain things we can’t seem to get straight. I get asked the same questions by every bride, bridesmaid, mother, cousin, grad or sister time and time again. So here they are…
How do I make my lips look fuller?
Just because your lips don’t look like Angelina Jolie’s that’s no reason to pout (no pun intended). There’s an easy fix to getting fuller looking lips – without the injections. Just ask Kylie Jenner
Step 1: Scrub all the dead skin off your lips using SUGAR Lip Polish.
Step 2: Conceal lips using either foundation or a light layer of concealer (idea here is to conceal your natural lip lines).
Step 3: Using a sharp lip liner, starting at your cupid’s bow, line your lips just above your natural lip line, keeping your lines even and clean.
Step 4: Starting at each corner of your mouth, fill in the outer third of your lips (with the same lip liner).
Step 5: Using a lighter shade of lip liner (in the same color family) or even a white pencil, fill in the remainder of your lip; blend out all lines using a clean lip brush.
Step 6: Next apply your lipstick using same lip brush in small strokes.
Step 7: Top your lipstick off with a matching or clear gloss.
How do I get dewy skin without looking oily?
There’s a fine line between dewy skin and oily skin. Achieving that luminous, dewy glow is actually a lot easier (and cheaper) than you think!
They key is to use the right Foundation, one that is not mattifying. Try one of these liquid Foundations for the best result: NAKED Skin by Urban Decay, Makeup Forever Face & Body, Laura Mercier Moisture Supreme Foundation or Koh Gen Doh Maifanshi Moisture Foundation.
Before applying foundation, give your face a generous spritz with MAC Fix+ Spray. Allow the spray to dry on it own. Skin should feel slightly tacky. Apply foundation using clean fingers. Give yourself another generous spritz of Fix+ and allow it to dry.
This next step is what takes you from greaseball to glowig radiance. Using a small domed round brush (such as NARS Blush Brush #10 or Mac Jacobs Blush Brush #20) apply a loose powder (Makeup Forever Super Matte Loose) to the centre of the forehead, around the nostrils, end of the nose and around the mouth to set and mattify those areas.
And voila. Dewy Skin. If you’re like me and you have an oily t-zone, you may find it challenging trying to maintain that Dewy-ness all day long. To help I carry a travel size bottle of MAC Fix+ with me and a MAC Blotting Powder compact. Throughout the day (or as needed), I just give myself a little spritz and use the Blotting Powder to dab away at my “greasey” areas (around the nostrils, centre of the forehead and around the mouth).
How do I keep my face looking matte all day?
A great mattifier paired with the right foundation and a little bit of powder can take you from day to night. Try pairing Makeup Forever All Mat Primer with Hourglass Immaculate Liquid Powder Foundation and finish off with Laura Mercier Mineral Powder. This combo works great on me and it’s exactly what I use when I know I have post-work engagements to attend.
How do I cover under-eye discolouration?
Under-eye discoloration (or dark circles) can be really frustrating to conceal if you don’t know how.
Instead of using a concealer that is the same color as your skin tone, try one with a peachey/orange/apricot/salmon undertone. For example, Eve Pearl’s Salmon Concealer. Makeup Forever, NYX, MAC and Anastasia Beverly Hills all make one, so there’s lots to choose from.
You don’t want to treat this concealer as an all-over-face concealer. Only use it on areas where you feel you look ashy when you put just your foundation on. For example, most women with dark undereye circles notice ashiness in that area or around the mouth and by the nostrils.
Apply your foundation first, and then the concealer to areas that need it.
I like to set my undereye area with a Banana Powder from Ben Nye to add a brightness to my under eyes. Perhaps that’s something you could also try if you struggle with this problem.
How do I get my lashes to look fuller?
Who doesn’t want full fat lashes? We all do. Sadly not all of us are blessed with a sky-high stack. There is a way to add volume to your lashes to give them the appearance of fullness without having to resort to lash extensions.
Here’s what you will need:
- Good quality mascara – mascara is made up of the brush plus the formula. Having the right brush is CRUCIAL. One that I swear by is Film Noir Full Spectrum Mascara by Hourglass.
- Baby Powder
Apply 2 coats of mascara to lashes. Dip one end of a Q-tip into some baby powder. Gently roll Q-tip onto lashes dispersing the powder. Lashes should look almost ash in colour.
Next apply another coat of mascara, covering up any ashey areas.
And there you have it. Voluminous lashes.
How do I stop my eyeliner from smudging or disappearing in my waterline?
Raccoon eyes look great on the runway but not necessarily in the office. Preventing your eyeliner from smudging or even disappearing in your waterline is really a matter of finding the right product paired with the correct application technique.
If your someone that struggles with smudging, try using an eye primer directly under your waterline before applying your liner. Also try a waterproof gel liner pencil, such as NARS Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner or L’Oreal Paris Extra Intense Liquid Pencil Eyeliner.
If you struggle with longevity of your eyeliner, try using a gel eyeliner in your waterline such as Inglot AMC Eyeliner GEL in No. 77. Other companies that make a gel eyeliner that is safe for your waterline are Smashbox Jet Set Waterproof Eyeliner and L’Oreal Paris Infallible Lacquer 24HR Gel Liner. With these gel liners you will need a brush to apply them, the nice thing about the L’Oreal one is that it comes with a brush for a very reasonable price. Once your eyeliner is on, set it with a highly pigmented matte black eyeshadow. This should keep it in place all day.
How do I stop my under-eye concealer from creasing
Under-eye creasing is very common, especially when using a cream concealer. Since majority of concealers are cream-based it’s nearly inevitable that most women would face this problem. One concealer that I have found that works wonders under the eye is the MAC Pro Longwear, its a liquid concealer and stays in place all day without creasing.
With all cream products you want to set them with a powder to ensure they don’t move. Now I know that’s an added step to your morning routine but it really is the best way to get your concealer to stay put. I like to use the Ben Nye Banana Powder under my eyes for 2 reasons. 1. it sets my concealer and 2. it brightens up my under eye area.
If your someone with a warmer undertone give the Banana Powder a try. Ben Nye also make their Luxury powders in a myriad of shades to suit all other skin tones.
How do I get my lipstick to stay on all day?
I am one of those people that believes your lipstick should NOT stay put all day, simply because I think it’s gross to keep the same coat on your lips after eating and drinking all day. But for certain occasions I do think that having a color stay in place is important. Or when you dare to go bold, you definitely need an insurance policy in place to make sure that color doesn’t stray.
Insurance policy = Anna Sui Lip Top Coat
This top coat works as a shield, it keeps your lipstick sealed in and prevents transfer. You need to give it a very vigorous shake before using it, and a little goes a long way!